The details
- The hot-swap sockets accept both 3-pin (plate mount) and 5-pin (PCB mount) MX switches, per Aula and Epomaker product documentation. You do not need to clip the two plastic legs off a 5-pin switch.
- Retail listings describe the F87 Pro as south-facing, which means taller Cherry-profile keycaps should clear the switch housing. Confirm on your own unit by looking at where the LED sits relative to the stem, since Aula has shipped more than one revision under this name.
- Linear, tactile and clicky switches all work. The socket only cares about the pin layout, not the feel.
- The stock switches are described as factory pre-lubed in Aula's listings, and the exact switch varies by colorway, so keep them in the box rather than discarding them: they can be reinstalled later.
- No firmware step is needed after a swap. The PCB reads any MX switch the moment it seats.
What does not fit
The sockets are MX-pattern only. These will not work:
- Low-profile switches such as Kailh Choc or Gateron Low Profile. The pin spacing and housing are different.
- Optical switches. They need an optical PCB with light sensors, which this board does not have.
- Magnetic Hall effect switches. They need magnetic sensors under each key, which this board does not have.
- Proprietary switches from Razer or Logitech boards, which use their own mounts.
What owners actually do
The common pattern in owner communities is to run the stock linears until they feel like changing the sound signature, then drop in a well-known budget linear or a medium tactile. Because the board is gasket mounted with foam layers, switch choice changes the sound noticeably, so owners often buy a small tester pack first rather than committing to a full set blind. Pull switches straight up with the included wire puller, gripping the top housing tabs, and push replacements in vertically until they click flush.
The trap to avoid
Bent pins are the one way a swap goes wrong. If a key stops registering after installing a new switch, pull it back out: almost always one metal pin has folded under the housing instead of entering the socket. Straighten it gently with tweezers and reinsert. Never force a switch that will not seat, because a cracked socket means soldering to repair. Support the board on a flat surface while pressing switches in.