The details
- The PCB uses 5-pin hot-swap sockets, so both 3-pin (plate mount) and 5-pin (PCB mount) MX switches fit without clipping legs, per Zuoya's documentation and retailer listings.
- Most listings describe the RGB as south-facing, which would mean Cherry-profile keycaps clear the switch housings, but the platform has been through several revisions: glance at where the LED sits relative to the stem on your own PCB before buying tall sculpted caps.
- Cherry, Gateron, Kailh, Akko, Outemu and other MX clones all work. Linear, tactile and clicky are all fine.
- The kit is a 65 percent gasket-mounted board with a knob and 66 keys plus the encoder, and stabilizers come pre-installed, so switches and keycaps are the only parts you supply.
- No soldering at any point. Switches press in until they click flush.
What does not fit
- Low-profile switches such as Kailh Choc: different pin layout and height.
- Optical switches: the PCB has metal-contact sockets, not light sensors.
- Magnetic Hall effect switches: no magnetic sensors on this PCB.
- The rotary knob is its own encoder module, not a switch socket. Nothing you buy for the keys goes there.
What owners actually do
The GMK67 is one of the most common first-custom kits, and the community playbook is well worn: fill it with an inexpensive, factory-lubed linear, and the foam-and-gasket stack does the rest of the sound work. Budget linears from Gateron and Akko dominate owner builds. People who want a deeper sound go slightly heavier; people bothered by the stock hollowness experiment with the foams rather than the switches. Buy at least 70 switches so you have spares beyond the 66 keys.
The trap to avoid
The GMK67 platform is sold by multiple brands (Zuoya is the original, and near-identical kits appear under various storefront names), and revisions differ in software support: the boards use Zuoya's own standalone driver for remapping, not QMK or VIA, whatever a third-party listing may imply. Switch compatibility has stayed consistent at 3-pin and 5-pin MX across versions, but confirm your specific listing says hot-swap before buying, and inspect pins on budget switches before installing. A folded pin is the usual cause of a dead key on this board, and it is fixed by pulling the switch and straightening the pin with tweezers.