The details
- The mechanical M1 family (M1, M1W, and the later V-series revisions such as the M1 V3 and M1 V5) uses 5-pin hot-swap sockets that accept both 3-pin and 5-pin MX switches, per MonsGeek's product pages.
- The PCB is south-facing, which MonsGeek specifically calls out as avoiding interference with Cherry-profile keycaps.
- Cherry, Gateron, Akko, Kailh and other MX clones all fit. Akko is MonsGeek's parent brand, so bundles often ship with Akko switches, but nothing about the board requires them.
- The M1 is an aluminum-case gasket board sold barebones in many configurations, so choosing switches is part of the normal build, not a modification.
- No soldering and no firmware changes are involved in a swap.
What does not fit
- Magnetic Hall effect switches do not work in the mechanical M1: there are no magnetic sensors on its PCB.
- The magnetic variants are different PCBs. Models with HE or TMR in the name sense magnets rather than metal contacts. Some newer TMR listings advertise accepting both magnetic and mechanical switches, while earlier HE boards are sold as magnetic-only. Do not assume either way: confirm on the product page for your exact variant.
- Low-profile switches (Choc and similar): wrong pin pattern and height.
- Optical switches: no light sensors on this PCB.
The trap to avoid
The M1 name now covers multiple PCB generations and two sensing technologies, and this is the single most common buying mistake with this board. If your product name includes HE or TMR (such as M1 HE or M1 V5 TMR), it is a magnetic-sensing board and its supported switch list is whatever its own product page says, which is not the same across versions. If it is the plain M1, M1W, or a V-numbered mechanical revision, it is a normal MX board. Check the exact model name on the box, the underside label, or your order confirmation before buying a batch of switches, because switches the PCB cannot sense will not register at all.
What owners actually do
The M1 built its reputation as an affordable aluminum kit, so the owner community treats switch choice as the main tuning knob. The usual approach: start with a mid-weight linear for the deep aluminum-case sound, and if the board arrives as a barebones kit, install stabilizer tuning before the switches go in, since pulling a full board of switches later to reach the stabilizers is the tedious part. Pull switches straight up with a proper wire puller and press replacements in vertically until flush.