The details
- RK's product listings for the M87 state 3-pin and 5-pin hot-swap support on the PCB. 5-pin switches seat without clipping the plastic guide legs.
- Common retail configurations ship with RK's pre-lubed Cream linear switches, but stock switches vary by listing and colorway. Check the box or your order details if you want to match them.
- Linear, tactile, and clicky switches all work. Switch feel is your choice; the socket only cares about the MX pin layout.
- Only full-height MX-style switches fit. Low-profile switch formats use different housings and will not seat in this board.
- The board is tri-mode wireless. Any compatible switch works identically across wired and wireless connections, since the switch is a passive component.
What does not fit
- Magnetic Hall-effect switches. Royal Kludge sells magnetic rapid-trigger boards in other product lines. Those switches require a sensor PCB and will not function in the mechanical M87.
- Optical switches. These need infrared sensing on the PCB and will not register.
- Low-profile and non-MX formats. Choc-style, Alps, and similar mounts are physically incompatible.
If yours is a different model
Royal Kludge's naming is genuinely confusing. The M87, R87, and R87 Pro are three different boards, and RK also sells 87-key boards under other prefixes. All the current mainstream RK 87-key mechanical boards are 3-pin and 5-pin hot-swap, but do not take that on faith for your specific unit: flip the board over and read the model name on the label before ordering switches. If the label mentions magnetic, Hall effect, or rapid trigger anywhere, stop and buy magnetic switches from that board's own ecosystem instead, because MX mechanical switches will not work in it.
What owners actually do
Owner communities treat the stock RK Cream linears as decent but replaceable. The usual upgrade path is a swap to name-brand factory-lubed linears or tactiles across the whole board, which is an evening of work with the included puller. Practical notes that come up repeatedly: support the PCB when pressing switches in, keep the pins straight, and pull switches straight up rather than rocking them side to side, which can stress the socket. If a key goes dead after a swap, pull the switch and check for a folded pin before assuming the socket failed.